Goodbye letter

Dear Hong Kong,

I started on my adventure with an ode to the city I love most - Toronto - however I find myself now, writing to you, Hong Kong, my new love. You intimidated me at first...you towered over me like a giant, crushing me with your strength, confining me with your people. But then I began to warm to you. I have walked thousands of steps on your streets, through your alleys, up escalators, down escalators, across mountain sides, villages and beaches. My feet have grazed your earth, planted firmly, walking curiously to uncover you. And you let me.

I have sailed over your waters by ferry boat and by dragon boat. I have been continuously astonished by the magnificence of your skyline. I have been stifled by your humidity and heat. I have curled up cold in the winter months, firing up space heaters, wearing long johns because your buildings just don't have any heat. I have dined at your finest and dirtiest restaurants...crab, char siu, hargow, noodle this, noodle that, I have gobbled you up. I have an expanded waist line to prove my devotion to your cuisine. I have used you - I have. I used you to venture to other lands, and to plan trips, that were just not meant to be. "Another time" I think to myself, but the truth is, I don't know if there will be another time. It saddens me to say that, but such is the beauty and mystery of life.

I met your people...some that you raised, others you didn't. They became my friends, my family while I occupied my small place on your land. I lived a life that I never really believed could actually be mine. You showed me it was, and then let me live it some more.

You, dear Hong Kong, became my muse.

Ours was a one time love affair. Cut short by circumstance, but profound enough to last forever.

You're part of me now Hong Kong. I may leave you, but I don't think you can ever leave me.

Kathleen-

Pudge

Hong Kong has been carb heaven to me. It's not like I could avoid all of the noodles and rice here, and I wasn't going to limit myself on what I ate, so I gave up my vegetarianism temporarily, forgot that carbs make me fat and just ate my way through Hong Kong. I've gained about 15 pounds - I am totally serious. I'm not that worried about it to be honest. I know once I get home and am set into my routine the weight will come off. So in my final few days in Hong Kong I decided to indulge even more.

On Thursday I had the absolute privilege of having one of the best meals of my life. A friend of mine had made reservations at a restaurant called TBLS (as in Tablespoon). He had planned to go with a few people, but he had to travel, so luckily I was one of the lucky recipients of the reservation. I say lucky because you have to book at least a month in advance at this restaurant. Weekend reservations are months and months in advance. It's a set 6 course menu with an amuse bouche and palette cleanser as well. I won't pretend to be a total foodie and know a lot about food, but I know when something is good. And this was divine!

There is only one sitting and the restaurant can only hold a maximum of 18 people. The 'restaurant' is tucked away in a semi-run down building. You need a code to get in the door and once you're in, travel up to the seventh floor in a run down elevator. The kitchen is out in the open and the four or five tables are placed around it. They don't advertise...this restaurant is all work of mouth and apparently word is travelling fast.

If you are ever going to Hong Kong, be sure to make reservations here well in advance, it is worth it!

Here is a review and a write up. The blog post in the second link features some of the menu, although a few of the dishes were different for me. The three other people I was with at the restaurant have all made repeat reservations. Yum!

http://www.timeout.com.hk/restaurants-bars/features/31766/tbls.html

http://www.gastronommy.com/2010/02/tbls-kitchen-studio-by-chef-owner-que.html

Roll with it

Remember how I said that I needed to live in the present moment to fully enjoy this experience? Well it's a good thing I did. Work circumstances changed for me, and I am heading back to Toronto (no, I didn't get fired). I can hear the gasps now. The collective sighs from across the world. But don't feel bad for me...I feel great! I have had an amazing experience in Asia, and even though I thought I would be here for five months, three and a half months isn't that bad. It gave me a good taste of Hong Kong, of Asia, and luckily I didn't waste any time. I lived life to the fullest.

My trip to Tibet will have to wait. That was one of those trips that I am just going to trust the universe and say that it wasn't meant to be this time around. Maybe next time...

This blog isn't finished though...I still have a few days left in Hong Kong and I will be posting my final thoughts on this wonderful city very soon.

One Big a$$ Buddha

I have been tardy on my posts lately, I know. I think the reason is because life has become ‘normal’ in Hong Kong. I feel like I live here now, so what could you possible want to know about what I am doing in Hong Kong? I hang out with friends, go for dinners, and the gym, grocery shopping, work (notice how that is far down the list) and basically I live life. You couldn’t possible want to know about what I do on a daily basis do you?

Despite the new normalcy of my Hong Kong life, I did have a fantastic weekend. My friend Trevor was in town, back from his Vietnam adventure, and a work colleague (and friend) was also in town from Toronto. I have been saving myself for the Big Buddha for months—partly because the views are better when the weather is good and partly because I was waiting for my friend Trevor to arrive. Saturday was the (Big Buddha) day. I booked cable car tickets, just one of the many options to get to the Big Buddha and off we went. For those of you know me, you know that I have a minor obsession with all things Buddha. My mother thinks I have too many in my apartment (there are going to be more when I get home) and I have been flirting with Buddhism for years. I have become a bit more intense about it in the last few months in Asia, attending classes, and lectures here and there…so seeing the biggest seated Buddha in the world was a bit of a big deal to me.

The cable car took us high above the mountains, I don’t recommend this method of travel for people afraid of heights. The half hour cable car trip was stunningly beautiful and as we came around a curve, I saw him. Sitting high above the mountains and the South China Sea, he sat looking ahead. I couldn’t see his face yet, but his size and beauty left me speechless. The Buddha weights 250 tonnes and took 10 years to make. It has only been on the top of this mountain for about 10 years, but it looks like it was meant to be there. Once my speech returned the squealing started. After arriving on Lantau island, Jeff, Trevor and I climbed the 300 or so stairs to get closer to the seated wonder. I walked around him slowly and carefully, soaking in every detail of his peaceful face. I just love Buddhas…images of Buddha actually calm me. I’m not sure if it is because of what the philosophy (and religion) the Buddha represents, but it does. It calms me every time. No wonder I have them in almost every room in my apartment!

After visiting with the Buddha we headed to the Po Lin Monastery—also a wonderful piece of architecture--gorgeous painted roofs, huge bronse statues and the mandatory billows of incense. For lunch we sat down at the vegetarian only restaurant next to the monestary for a yummy meal.

The disappointing fact about the Buddha and the monestary was the fact that I felt like I was at a Buddhist Disneyland. While it didn’t ruin the whole experience for me, it did diminish the value of it. Sourvenir shops littered the grounds of the Buddha, not to mention the fake Bodhi tree by the washroom. The Bodhi tree is where Buddha (or Siddhartha) reached enlightenment. It’s a pretty important place—I don’t think Buddhists would appreciate a fake bodhi tree being next to the loo.

Overall though the experience was very worth while—the sight of the Buddha gave me butterflies and the memory of it will stay with me for a very long time.

Anticipation

In one of my earlier posts I said I was going to try really hard to live in the present moment, and not dwell on how many months or weeks I have left in my stay here and just take it minute by minute – but I am just too excited!! I am breaking my own rule to announce that there are only seven weeks left before I depart on the BIG TRIP. The BIG TRIP will take me to Beijing for three or four days, then on a train for two days through crazy altitudes and mountains, where I will travel to Tibet for close to 10 days, then head to Nepal for a couple of days, then back to Hong Kong via Mumbai. I just can’t handle the anticipation, I am so excited! It’s going to be a fantastic trip, but a lot of prep work is going into the trip as well. I have to get four visas – I am happy to say I now how my Chinese visa *yippee* and I am also scouring the city for appropriate clothing. This is a harder feat than one might think. For those of you who know me, I am not a size 2. I am not obese either, but it's been a bit hard to find clothing here that fits me. I bought pants the other day in a mens' large and I also had to buy mens' sandals. Women's shoes only go to size 9 (I am a proportionate size 10 ladies). How I wish we had a one stop MEC here! So the countdown is officially on. I will try to continue to live in the moment, but if someone mentions Tibet, BIG TRIP, or basically the month of June, I can’t make any promises that my mind won’t wander.

Shek O

It's hard to believe you are in Hong Kong when you visit Shek O. Shek O is a small village on the "other" side of the island, away from the skyscrapers, the crowds and the buzz. It is a place of peace and of tranquility. As my friend Winnie and I drove there yesterday afternoon, I couldn't believe how much the scenery reminded me of the West Coast of Canada. I remembered a romantic weekend I spent with an ex-boyfriend on the Sunshine Coast of BC. The rolling lush mountains and the rocky shores were all very reminiscent of that time.

I am on the downward slope of my time in Hong Kong. I have less that 8 weeks left in this city. It's hard to believe that my time here is coming to a close. When I first arrived, there were moments that I wanted time to speed up. There are times now that I want it to slow down. Last night was one of those times.

Winnie and I walked along the beach and then explored the houses and neighborhoods of Shek O. We hiked up to the top of a small peak (in our flip flops) and watched the sun, the elusive orb that has been hiding from me for months, set behind the mountains.

Our next stop was a small beach front bar, where we drank beer, ate peanuts, watching surfers come in from their day in the waves and gossiped until we were surrounded by the dark and quiet night. It felt as though I was on vacation at a beach resort, but there was something familiar about it. It has started to feel like home here. Getting up to purchase our second round, I met a French woman at the bar and we started to talk in her native tongue. I stumbled through the language - it's been a while since I've spoken French. She asked if I lived here, and I said, "Yes, right now I do." As we conversed, she told me how brave I was to work and live in Hong Kong. For me, there is no bravery involved, just a desire for change, for something new and a thirst for knowledge. I have realized what drives me to travel the way I do, to embark on adventures that most wouldn't consider. I have an endless desire to know more, to learn, to meet people that come from different backgrounds than me. I'm not searching for anything, except to learn how we all fit together on this very large (and very small) planet. I truly believe we are all connected, and I love uncovering all the ways in which we are.

Following dinner, Winnie and I went to the local corner store, bought some cans of beer (classy I know) and headed to the beach where I taught Winnie how to make a meditation sand seat, and we sat and talked. Winnie was born and raised in Hong Kong - she has lived abroad, but this is her home. I told her stories about my home, about my friends, about past relationships and experiences. I told her about my family and the things I miss about my home and the things I love about Hong Kong. She shared many of her experiences - strangely some of which were eerily similar to mine. I also knew last night that Winnie is one of those people that I want in my life for a long time. It may not be beer on the beach forever, but she is definitely a friend for life.

Beware of Dragons

I lost my mind temporarily last week and joined a Dragon Boat team. I have never been in a dragon boat, nor seen a dragon boat race or frankly, had any desire to do it. Somehow, while convincing a colleague at work not to quit the team, I ended up signing up myself. We aren't as hard core as other teams - we only practice once a week, and we only have one race day. The countdown is on - June 16th is the big day. I will be racing at the Hong Kong dragon boat festival.

Yesterday, I made my way to Stanley Beach in Hong Kong, was given a quick lesson on how to paddle by our coach in very broken English and made my way into the boat (it wasn't a pretty sight). The water was rough yesterday, but the sun was shining (a rare occurrence). It took me a few minutes to get the hang of it, but it wasn't too hard. I think all of those years of canoeing and kayaking have paid off! After a few minutes, I was completely soaked by the waves and I am currently waiting for giardia to set in - I must have swallowed a gallon of dirty sea water. After an hour and a half, I was quite certain I couldn't continue. My legs and arms felt like jelly. After one drill, my arms were actually shaking. How am I going to race? I thought - there is no way I am strong enough. Oh well, I have five more practices before race day. I have to improve before then. I hope.

As I stood in line to shower the caked on sea salt from my body, a girl from my team came up to me and asked, "How long have you been dragon boating for? Your form is really great!". I laughed and told her that this was my first time. She looked shocked and said, "Well good for you - you are doing so well!". Maybe it won't be so bad after all.

The Veteran

My friends Trevor and Heather came from Toronto to visit me this past weekend. The experience taught me a few important lessons. First, I realized that I am getting to know Hong Kong very well - not quite expert level, but very close. After almost three months here (can you believe it has already been almost three months!) I was able to roar around the city showing them all of the key attractions, great restaurants and bars and even some time to relax. I did consult my map once, but that was in Kowloon, and I don't count that.

Our three day itinerary brought us to the following places:

Upperhouse Bar for over priced drinks overlooking the skyline of Hong Kong and a perfect spot to look at many beautiful people fresh from the office after a long day toiling in the financial world. Café Saim for spicy Thai food. Tivo on Wyndham for champagne cocktails and more people (men) watching. Lai Do for martinis in Lan Kwai Fong to see the Richmond Street of Hong Kong. The Azure patio for more cocktails and a patio that makes you feel that you are on top of the world.

That was only Friday night. Saturday we…

Had a late start because of all the champagne and martinis consumed on Friday. Ate a vegan brunch at Life for a chilled out start to the day. Took a crazy cab ride up to the Peak, where I was quite certain that the cab driver had lost his mind and would certainly fly us off the mountain in his cab because he thought we were American. “We are Canadian!!!”. Shopping at the Peak Galleria, coffee pit stops, picture taking at the Peak lookout. A trip down the mountain on the Peak tram and then a walk around Soho. Early arrival for our one hour long reflexology foot massage (divine!). Grabbed a yummy cupcake and ate it on the street underneath the mid-levels escalators. Quickly headed home to get ready for dinner, and show Trevor and Heather how to take the MTR (subway). Pre-dinner drinks at Sevva. More high buildings, more patio, more incredible views. An authentic Cantonese dinner at Under the Bridge Chili Crab, where we had…. spicy crab and seriously the best Cantonese food ever. Walked through Wan Chai to the Pawn where we had drink, after drink, after drink and decided that we had revolutionized photography with a new technique (pictures to come). Stumble home. Sleep.

Sunday we headed on the Star Ferry to Kowloon for Dim Sum and a walk around one of the most populated areas on earth. After exhibiting the patience of saints, we decided to leave Kowloon behind (it’s no fun on that side), and headed home. After a couple of hours of chill out time, Trevor and Heather headed to the airport for their next adventure – Vietnam.

From the itinerary I realized that I really do know Hong Kong quite well. I can’t believe how much I have learned about the city and the people since I arrived. I also realized that even though I have been gone for three months, it doesn’t really feel like time has passed. When I first saw Trevor, it was like I had seen him last week in Toronto. I kept reminding myself that we were all together in Hong Kong and once that hit me – that is when it really became surreal.

On Friday night, standing on the patio of Azure, looking down 50 floors to the street below, Heather asked me: “Are you proud of yourself, of being here, of accomplishing this? Do you ever say to yourself, I am proud that I made it this far?” I thought about that for a second and sort of laughed it off. “I guess”, I said in response. The reality is, I haven’t. Do I appreciate the opportunity? Yes. Very much so. Do I love that I can travel to places off the beaten path? Totally – yes. But I don’t think I have ever felt proud, and on the flip side, I haven’t felt entitled. I feel grateful and content with what I have been given and what I have worked for. I have two more months in Hong Kong. At times when I think about what I have left behind, my family and friends and the places I love in Toronto, it feels like a long time, but in other ways it feels like I could just snap my fingers and it will be over. Just in case it is a snap, I plan to have more weekends like my last. Action packed, full of friends, full of laughter and full of Hong Kong.

Thailand in Words

The heat hit me like a punch in the face. 42 degrees. I hadn't done my research properly before I left for Thailand and it turns out that April is the hottest month of the year. I won't bore you with the stories of the almost missed connecting flights, the running through the Bangkok airport stealing quick glances through the windows to see Bangkok, or the British couple I met who shared in my confusion at the airport. No, you don't need to read about all of that. I will start this post upon my arrival at the Koh Samui airport.

Like I said, the heat hit me like a punch in the face. I just really had no idea how hot it would be. The Koh Smaui airport looks like a five star resort - thatched roof, comfy couches, tropical music and friendly staff. It was probably the nicest airport I had ever been to. I had booked myself into a resort that had no stars really. The hotel was recommended to me by an old friend whom I reconnected with on Facebook. From what I had read it was somewhere in the jungle, it was hard to get to and it was cheap. Really cheap. I upgraded my room to the Bungalow and that was $30 CDN a day. The first room I booked was $18 CDN. I wondered what $18 can buy you in Thailand - apparently a lot. My pickup didn't happen at the airport so I had some time to get acclimatized to the scorching heat. Once the driver finally arrived we made our way through the winding streets of Cheweng and to the drop off point for my hotel. My hotel was so far up a mountain that you couldn't get there by regular car, so at the bottom of the road leading up to the hotel, you place a call and the 4x4 comes to get you. I piled onto the back of the pick up truck and braced myself for the bumpy road ahead. I would later make this trip three or four times a day. Little did I know at that point the paradise that awaited me at the top of the mountain.

When I first stood at the top of the mountain and looked down, I just couldn't believe the view. My pictures don't do it justice and I don't think there is any way to capture the blue of the water on film. I spent 5 night and 6 days at the resort. The food was amazing, and while the accommodations were simple - they were just what I needed.

My first night there I met a South African girl named Lesley who was also travelling by herself. She had rented a motorbike that day, so that night we headed down to Cheweng beach to have dinner. Travelling alone is a funny thing - sometimes people don't know what to make of you. It was her first time really travelling alone and she commented that couples are really unfriendly towards her. As a seasoned solo traveller I knew the couple phenomenon well. I can't assume it is the same for men, but I have always found that couples are the least friendly towards you when travelling alone. Families will speak to you, friends of the the same sex, other solo travellers, but not couples. I'm not sure if it is the fact that they want their alone time with their mate and can't be bothered to strike up a conversation with someone else, or if they just feel uncomfortable with a single woman travelling along. Lesley was fascinated by this.

The next day Lesley inspired me, good or bad, to go into town and rent a motorbike. I have never driven a motorbike let alone in Thailand or on the opposite side of the road. This was going to be a challenge. With a little bit of a rocky start I finally found my way and was buzzing around the island in no time. First stop, the spa, where I spent a heavenly afternoon having a Thai massage, body scrub and face massage. It was soooooo good. So good, that I booked a second day.

That night I spent lazing around in my hammock and had a great dinner with Lesley. One of the best dishes I tried while in Thailand was Meang Khum. It is a traditional appetizer that is served on a platform and you sort of make it up yourself. You take Betel leaves, ginger, onion, lime pieces, dried shrimp, cashews or peanuts, chillies and a honey sauce, put all the ingredients into the leaf, wrap it up and pop it in your mouth - delicious!! It was amazing and I am planning to make it when I get home.

My second full day in Thailand I got a very bad burn on my back despite putting on loads of sun screen, which I now think was fake. How could I burn with 50+ sunscreen re-applied six times if it wasn't fake? I made my way to Waterfall 1 and Waterfall 2, had a refreshing swim and then headed back down again.

That night, despite the burn, Lesley and I went to see some Muay Thai boxing. Muay Thai is my new favourite thing - I love it! There is a ritual done at the beginning of the fight where each fighter pays respect to their teacher and their opponent. For each fight this ritual is done, and it is a great thing to witness. I also noticed that when someone was knocked out, the opponent didn't gloat or stick around in the ring to shame the opponent. There was a massive knockout in one of the fights I saw and the opponent immediately left the ring as soon as it was clear the fight was over. I really appreciated the respect that the fighters had for each other - quite different from UFC or regular boxing at home.

My remaining days were spent booting around the island and sight seeing in different places. I definitely want to go back to the Thai Islands and expand my travels beyond Samui and perhaps go to Phengan, or Tao.

One night Lesley and I also went to check out a drag show. These drag shows are a little different than the ones at home. Lady boys, as they are affectionately called in Thailand are very common and almost accepted. I was told that in Thailand three genders are recognized - male, female and transgendered. I have seen good drag queen before, but the female performers were wonderful. I could not believe how beautiful they looked. I think it was quite shocking to some men in the audience, and toyed with their mind a little bit. It was clear many of them had had surgery, but even the ones who hadn't did a great job of transforming themselves.

On my final full day, I decided that I had cheated death for long enough and I returned my motorbike. I relied on my hotel transportation and spent another wonderful afternoon at the spa. That night, I gathered with a bunch of people I had met, shared some laughs, magic tricks, stories and one too many mojitos. The next day I was leaving Thailand, but not forever.

Thailand was a great trip of reflection for me. Before I left Hong Kong, I was offered a permanent role here. If I liked Hong Kong, I could stay indefinitely. Indefinite is a strange word. There are no boundaries to it. It seems endless because it is. There is something clean and perfectly packaged about my five months away. But I couldn't just say no to the offer. I have been telling all my friends and family that I would come home - "Don't worry, there is no way I am staying. " I would say. But that wasn't really true. I have started to really love Hong Kong. It wasn't a definite no to the indefinite proposal. I had to think about it. One night in Thailand as I sat outside and looked up at the sky, I realized something. I hadn't seen the moon and the stars since I arrived in Hong Kong over two months ago. Not once. I am a Canadian girl born and raised - I have always been able to see the moon and stars when I have wanted too. I always know where to go for a breath of fresh air. In Hong Kong I don't have that. The next morning I woke up, and I knew I couldn't stay in Hong Kong. And so the decision was made, but the decision was also made to live my life to the absolute fullest while I am here.

I met so many people when I was on Samui - the nameless French man who I spent part of an afternoon with searching for waterfalls, the Gowan family - Larry Gowan's cousin from the UK, who knows Toronto very well and also knows a guy who once asked me out in Toronto (random), the Brit who lives in Australia who lives for Tim Horton's coffee and breakfast sandwiches, the podiatrist from England who is travelling on her own for the first time and I know that when I left her she was still scared, but I bet now she has spread her wings and is flying on her own. I met a girl from London who had just gotten out of rehab, who is travelling Thailand to find herself. In the end, I think she found what she was looking for on the island of Samui.

And then there is me. A Canadian girl on her own, in search of nothing. She has it all.

Thailand in Photos

View from my room at the Jungle Club in Koh Samui.

The ring at the Muay Thai Stadium.

Me on my motorbike.

My basic but comfy room, complete with hot shower and mosquito net!

The departure gate at the Koh Samui airport.

Lady boy. Hard to tell huh?

Fancy a road side cocktail?

Dusk. Taken from my hammock.

Girl from London travelling around Thailand.

Brit/Aussie boy that loves Tim Horton's.

Brit/Aussi boy with Brit podiatrist.

The Gowan family.

My room at the spa. Sigh. Amazing.

Full set of photos can be found here: http://www.flickr.com/photos/kathleenpics/

FMIHK is on a mini-break

I am heading to Thailand this week for a much needed mini-break. I will be staying in the jungles of Koh Samui in what I can only describe as a small hut. You can only access this "hotel" by 4x4, so it is sure to be an adventure. After Thailand I am heading to the Philippines for work, so I won't be blogging for a couple of weeks. As soon as I get back I will be posting my thoughts about Thailand and my brief trip to Manila, so be sure to check back.

Happy Easter everyone!

Kathleen-

Testosterone City

This weekend was the much anticipated Rugby Sevens weekend. Before I got to Hong Kong, I have never heard of it and when I did hear about it, I had no idea what it was. The Hong Kong Rugby Sevens tournament is a three day Rugby tournament that is known more for the extracurricular debauchery that takes place in the city than the rugby. Rugby is just the official reason that 40,000 people, mostly men from the UK and Australia, descend on the city. Anything goes during Rugby Sevens weekend, and believe me, when I say it's true. Everything really does go.

Since it was Sevens weekend, I did manage to catch a rugby game. I went on Friday night, the least popular day and sat in the South stands. The South stands are known for the costumes, the drunkenness and the pure shenanigans of the fans. This was my first brush with British fans who are passionate about their game. I always imagined that I would one day go to a European football game just to see what the fans were like--I know that I most certainly got a taste of it this weekend at the Sevens.

The games are all played with seven people on each team (different from regular rugby) and each half is seven minutes long, so the games are quick. I watched about ten games on Friday night including Canada versus Tonga. Canada won and although I was one of a few Canadians cheering in the stands I cheered loudly and very patriotically.

I kept things quiet on Friday night and decided to make my big night out on Saturday. I can't even describe the swells of people in the streets, spilling out of the bars by the hundreds. It was an amazing night and I am paying for it today. That's another thing that the Sevens weekend is known for--the astounding hangovers and the willingness to keep watching rugby despite it. There were many adventures last night, but I'm afraid I will end my post here. Another rule about Sevens weekend--what happens at the Sevens, stays at the Sevens.

The Stadium

The Canadian Team warming up.

Adam, come to Hong Kong

If I could speak personally to Adam Giambrone, I would tell him two things: Adam, you should come to Hong Kong to learn how keeping extra-marital affairs private is done (it’s quite remarkable how stealthy people are here), and Adam if you want to make the TTC the better way, you should take a close look at the MTR system in Hong Kong.

I’ve remarked to myself numerous times since I arrived in Hong Kong, how amazing the MTR system is (they don’t call it subway here, subway is a whole other thing in Hong Kong). I felt compelled to write about it this morning when I noticed something I hadn’t noticed before—classical music is pumped into the stations. It has quite the calming effect during the morning rush. But that’s not all. Oh no, that’s just the beginning.

Food and drink are not allowed on the MTR system, so it is sparkling clean. No gum, no wrappers, no smelly left over food, just sparkling clean trains. I thought that maybe people would leave their commuter newspapers behind on the train, but I think Hong Kongers actually respect their train system. They recycle their papers on the way out.

During rush hours there are attendants at each entrance of the train. This is to help the flow of traffic in and out. In fact, they even have lines painted on the floor so you can line up and smoothly enter and exit the train. No mad mob pushing to get on here.

The trains are frequent and usually timed with each other. The system is quite large, so many transfers from train to train can take place. Just walk across the hall in the station, and you’ve found your other train.

There are NO delays on the train. Actually, that’s not true. I had a delay once. The announcer came on the loud speak and in a completely audible tone told me that the wait would be exactly 2 and a half minutes, and that she was very sorry. She hoped she hadn’t inconvenienced my day. While there may be the occasion delay, there are no jumpers, so the delays aren’t that bad. No suicides on this train system. Why? There are large plexiglass barriers with sliding doors that prevent jumping.

The one complaint I would have is that due to the size of Hong Kong, there are a zillion exits at each station. They are numbered alphabetically, and although the signage is good, it can be a bit intimidating. The Hong Kong MTR people have solved this problem though. Customer service desks are in every station – every one! My first couple of weeks here I basically went to the customer service desk each time I travelled. They were very helpful and guided me through my MTR experience.

Forget the metro pass, here they have the Octopus card - the card that does everything. You fill it up with money and then use in on the bus, MTR, ferry system, oh but wait – you can also use it at Starbucks (and many, many other coffee shops around the city), grocery stores. It even doubles as my building security card. Love the Octopus card.

Perhaps the best thing about the Hong Kong MTR system is the cost. I took the MTR to work this morning (the distance is equivalent from Yonge and Eg to Union) and it cost me $0.76 CND. You read correctly. Seventy-six cents.

Adam Giambrone, you have a lot to learn.

Lamma

I woke up to the birds chirping, the sun shining and one goal--I was going to the beach. I boarded the ferry to Lamma Island--the closest of the outlying islands to Hong Kong and a half hour ride away from paradise. The island is known for it's "hippie" and "bohemian" population, and I have to say I loved it! I wandered around and ate lunch at a great vegetarian restaurant that was recommended to me called the Bookworm, where I devoured the best salad I have ever had and filled up on some refreshing fresh mint tea. Then it was time for the beach. After a 20 minute walk, I found myself on a quaint little beach. On such a sunny day, I was surprised to see only a few people out on the beach suntanning, and upon closer inspection I saw that all of the people on the beach were "gweilos" (or expats). All of the Asians people were tucked underneath the trees avoiding the sun. Not only were they tucked away but they covered themselves with gloves, blankets and sun visors. In Hong Kong, and I expect the rest of Asia, it is considered unattractive to be tanned or dark. The whiter you are the better in their eyes. Being tanned is a symbol of having to do outdoor work or "rice field work". Affluence and the appearance of affluence is very important in Hong Kong and tanned skin is frowned upon. In fact it is so frowned upon that there is a multi billion dollar skin whitening industry here--creams, bleaching treatments...all to achieve the whitest skin possible.

I dug myself a little sand seat and plopped myself down to soak up the rays. After a very grey couple of months, it was so nice to feel the sunshine. It's quite remarkable that only half an hour away from the shadows of the sky scrapers and millions of people bumping into each other, there is an oasis like Lamma Island. Though today was my first time in Lamma, I have no doubt that it won't be my last time. I can't wait to go back. When I got home and looked in the mirror I was pleased to see my nose was sun kissed and my summer tan has started. Thank goodness I'm not so white anymore.

Mishmash

This week was full of many random and exciting things. I battled my flu/cold and finally won after doing absolutely nothing on Sunday. I actually didn't even get out of my pyjamas. I laid on the couch and watched what seemed like 100 episodes of Entourage. This, I have found, is the cure to the flu. Tea and Entourage. It was a good thing I won against the flu, because I had a busy week ahead.

I don't want to make it a habit of talking about work on this blog, partly because work is my least favourite part of my Hong Kong adventure, but also because this is a public site and don't want to share a lot of details about the company I work for. I had a very exciting work week though, so this post will be my "no work talk" exception.

I played publicist and handler this week to an author and may-jah financial big wig this week. I have spent weeks planning his trip to Asia, thinking of every last detail and working torturous hours just to get ready. Well, last week was finally the big week. Big Whig's trip didn't get off to a great start--I had arranged a driver to pick him up at the airport and when I received a call from the Big Whig from the airport telling me there was no one to pick him up, I knew it would be a challenging few days. You would think that Hong Kong is the perfect picture of efficiency, and in many ways it is, but in so many ways it's not. I often hear people say "Welcome to Asia" after some sort of avoidable blunder. I never really understood it until my 10:30 p.m. phone call from Big Whig. Everything turned out well I am happy to say, he was pleased as punch with the media tour I had set up for him. The highlight for me was going on location with CNN to this amazing spot that overlooked the Hong Kong Harbour. As I looked out at the skyline, the CNN correspondent in my periphery, I allowed myself to feel the tinge of excitement that was lingering in my stomach. I also realized as I guided Big Whig from interview to interview, and from event to event that I have learned so much in only seven weeks. I knew where I was going and what I was doing. While the climb up the learning curve is far from complete, I think I have reached a much more manageable incline.

My week was also a mishmash because I attended the annual staff dinner. The evening was strange and filled with so many random occurrences I don't know if I can do them all justice. First off, my boss decided that the marketing team would go in costume. So not only do I stand out because I am tall and gleaming white, but now I had to put on a costume and bring more attention to myself. The theme of the evening was Hollywood Glamour so without my knowledge or consent it was decided that we were all going as characters from Alice in Wonderland and I would be the Red Queen (or the Queen of Hearts). I wasn't familiar with the Red Queen, but after some brief google research I concluded that she was mean, ugly and in some cases quite fat. Great. Not my idea of Hollywood Glamour. A make up artist was hired and I was transformed into ugly Red Queen. Not too many people were in costume at the event, mostly people opted for tuxes and gowns. I felt like a circus freak in a room full of models.

The entertainment was one of many oddities that evening. The first act was a child Michael Jackson impersonator (isn't that an oxymoron?) who performed a melange of the King of Pop's hits. The second act were dancers who incorporated so many different styles into their 3 minute dance that they looked possessed. The rest of the evening was filled with hours of strange contests and employee awards. Guess the Cantonese movie star and Hong Kong Dollar Bingo (they call out serial numbers on dollar bills - if they match your own money - you win).

The meal was about 20 courses long. There wasn't much for my vegetarian palate, so I gave in and had bbq'd pork. It was probably the best thing I have ever tasted in my life and even now I still get hungry just thinking about this bbq pork. It is a specialty in Hong Kong and it may just convert me back to a carnivore. The tough part of the meal came when shark fin soup was served. Shark fin soup is considered a delicacy in Asia and is a symbol of affluence. It is also one of the major contributing factors of the decline of the shark population in the world. 100 million sharks are killed each year, a large portion used for shark fin soup. The brutality of the killing is one thing, but when sharks are killed for shark fin soup, only a small part of the shark is used. The rest goes to waste. It is considered rude to not eat what is in front of you during a communal Chinese meal, but I couldn't do it. I didn't make a scene, I just used the fact that I was abstaining from eating shark fin soup as my form of protest. It's not only sharks though, a major contributing factor of the decline of the tiger population is because tigers are used in Chinese medicine. With half of the world's population in the region I am living in, it's no wonder that a species can go extinct just because its body part is popular in Asia. I realize that have to be careful to respect the culture I am living in, while at the same time stand strong in my beliefs. Shark fin soup was one of those moments for me. One of the table guests later asked why I didn't eat it, and I used the opportunity to share my views. He said he knew the problems with shark fin soup, but chose to eat it anyway. We spoke at length about it and I think I may have convinced him to give up shark fin soup for the time being. It may be one person of a billion, but at least it's something.

To lighten things up a bit, I have posted a picture of the ugly Red Queen (Alice is sitting next to me). This was as I was about to yell Bingo - my serial number had been chosen!

The Sanatorium

That's where I was this morning - the Hong Kong Hospital and Sanatorium. What a way to start a sunny Thursday morning in Hong Kong. I've been battling a pretty bad cold (or what I thought was a cold) for about a week now. I've neglected my health for work in the past week. No need to wag a finger at me - I know it's bad, I should have stayed home, but I didn't and so this morning I woke to another day with a fever, a clogged chest and feeling much worse than I did yesterday. I decided today was the day, I was going to finally see a doctor and maybe do something about my "cold".

I wish I could have taken pictures of the hospital, but I will do my best to describe what was a wonderful experience in health care. I entered the hospital and was immediately told to put on a mask, which I did. The hospital is very sterile, full of marble and strange cascading black and gold staircases a la Gone With the Wind. I made my way over to out patent services where I was triaged, then headed over to the Nurse's Station. This was my favourite part - not only do the nurses wear the old school nurses uniform, complete with white square hat but there are SO many of them. They buzz around with the utmost of care, but there were no other patients so I wasn't really sure what all the buzzing was about. Perhaps it was me they were buzzing about - the white, sickly giant among them. It took three of them to take my blood pressure and temperature. Then once it was ascertained that I did indeed still have a temperature I was directed to wait outside of Room 5 for the doctor. There are no cloth curtains here, no way, I waited in a leather chair outside of a proper doctor's office. Two of the nurses joined me, entered the doctors room and then directed me in. The nurses then stood behind me like guardians (or gargoyles depending on your outlook) waiting to jump at any task the doctor would assign them. The first and only task was to help me lift up my shirt so the doctor could hear me breath. Apparently I am not capable of doing this myself, but fear not - buzzing nurses were to the rescue!

The doctor was very efficient asking many questions and ruling out ailments - the diagnostic - the flu apparently, although I don't believe it for a second. I've already had the flu this year, I can't get it again! According to the doctor I did have the flu and then in moved into my chest and now I have a chest infection. I was told to go to the pharmacy and pick up my medication, but not before I was given a sick leave letter for the day (yay!).

Before I picked up my medication I had to pay. Oh yes, I forgot to mention this marble trimmed, leather decked out hospital was a private hospital - a public hospital adventure is for another day, perhaps when I am not sick. The grand total of the bill was $580 HKD, that's about $80 CDN, which included the cost of seeing the doctor, and the medication. Once the pharmacist called me, I would soon realize what a deal this actually was. I was prescribed seven different medications! SEVEN! This is a far cry from my naturopath back home, whom I was missing terribly at this point. I sort of laughed at the pharmacist and said, "Do you think I have enough medication here?". He either didn't understand or appreciate my sarcasm because he looked up for a second, make no facial expression and continued telling me what I needed to take and when. I would need an excel chart to understand how to take my medication, so I have opted to pick and choose. Congestion - check, cough - check, the others are not necessary in my opinion. Welcome to the office of Dr. Kathleen.

And then it was done. In and out of the hospital in 45 minutes. I'm home now, sipping peppermint tea and about to pop some pills and head to bed. I think what I really need is some rest.

Spring in Toronto?

I’ve been hearing about the amazing weather back home. Congrats to all my Torontonian friends on escaping winter. I’m slightly jealous, but to be honest I quite like the snow, so it sounds like I didn’t miss much. I had a very strange feeling this morning. I was walking to the office from the subway and the weather is quite cool and rainy today. It felt exactly like a late spring rainy day at home. It really threw me. I closed my eyes for a moment as I stepped outside of Starbucks with my morning tea and it was almost like being back in Toronto. As I listened more carefully and then opened my eyes I saw the thousands of people rushing to work, people eating noodles for breakfast, engaging in conversation in LOUD Cantonese, doing Tai Chi, car horns honking like crazy, cherry blossoms blooming….nope, definitely still in Hong Kong.

My Current Playlist

A Case of You – Joni Mitchell
Wintersong – Sarah McLaughlan
Ring of Fire – Johnny Cash
Sleeping Sickness – City of Colour
West End Girls – Pet Shop Boys
Gayatri Mantra – Deva Premal
Knocked Up – Kings of Leon
La Femme Parallel – Thievery Corporation
That Ole Devil Called Love – Billy Holiday

Post Script – Magnificent Macau

One thing I forgot to describe in my earlier post in the silence in the casinos. Macau is very different from Vegas, but perhaps the biggest difference was the level of noise in the casino. People take their gambling very seriously here, and the tables were filled with people concentrating, strategizing and taking their game very seriously. No rambunctious laughter, no pumping music. It was basically like gambling in a library.

Magnificent Macau

It's been a tough week for me, both personally and professionally. Adjusting to life in Hong Kong hasn't been easy. I would say that the most challenging part of my experience here has been my work life, but it has been affecting my whole outlook. Everyone has tough weeks, but this one seemed particularly hard. Most people who know me, know that I am a pretty positive person 95% of the time. In fact, I think I have an intolerance for negativity that border lines on impatience. I don't like being around negative people and I don't like it when it's in myself. On Thursday night I had had enough. After a long yoga and meditation session, I felt like I had a new outlook and I was prepared to bring that to all aspects of my life.

I woke up on Friday to a head cold and what turned out to be a very long and hard day at work. But it didn't really phase me. After work, I headed to a bar called The Pawn, and it has become my new favourite place in Hong Kong. Built in an old Pawn shop, the eclectic furniture, amazing acoustic music and chilled out atmosphere were just what I needed. I had planned to have one glass of champagne, but after four I decided to call it a night. I am feeling more and more comfortable in Hong Kong, and as I walked through the narrow side streets to find a cab, I realized that I am really getting to know this city. I am really becoming comfortable here.

On Saturday morning I met up with 6 friends and boarded the luxury ferry to Macau (think plush leather seats). I haven't been out of the country since I moved here, and even though it's just a short trip, escaping the crazy of Hong Kong was welcome. Most people know Macau now as a place to gamble, but it is so much more than that. Even though Macau pulls in $3 billion more than Las Vegas, there is not as much of a commercial and "Vegas" feel to it, as Vegas.

Macau's roots are Portuguese. It was only handed back to China from Portugal in 1999, so Portuguese influences are everywhere, including the language, the people, the culture and the architecture.

I was lucky to go on the trip with a new friend whose Mother has an apartment in Macau, solely for the purposes to have a place to stay on the weekend when she gambles. She booked us an amazing lunch at a Portuguese restaurant where we feasted on mild cheese flavoured with salt and pepper, clams in an amazing tomato sauce and for my main I had cod--a portion so big I was quite certain that I was eating the entire cod fish!

After that we headed into the main square, and took in the sites...churches, temples, forts. The people from Macau are such an amazing mix of Portuguese and Chinese--my ear kept tricking me as I heard people switch from Cantonese to Portuguese seamlessly. As I stood in the street and listened to the sounds that were all around me, I felt as though I was climbing my very own tower of Babel. We explored Macau for a few hours and then headed to the spa. My Post Valentine's Day Massage Massacre was redeemed because the 90 minute massage that I experienced in Macau was the best one I have every had in my life. Massages were followed up by a divine dinner at the Wynn hotel, where I think my quote of night was, "I think heaven just exploded in my mouth." That was in reference to the best lemon I have EVER had. I can still taste it.

My day was amazing--not only because Macau is an amazing place to explore, but because I spent time with five phenomenal women. My friends, and friendship, is not something that I have ever taken for granted, but it is something that has been heightened in my mind since arriving in Hong Kong. On Saturday, five people came together from Canada, Japan, and China all currently living in Hong Kong--some for only a couple of more weeks, some indefinitely...but despite the differences in our history, we laughed like we had known each other for years and shared in the positive energy that was all around us.

Here are some pictures of Magnificent Macau.

Anybody out there?

I've heard from a few people that they're reading this blog...but are you still? Drop me a line and let me know if I should continue this. I love writing it, but do you like reading it? Let me know.

Hi-Ho, Hi-Ho

Ah work. Work, work, work. It’s all I seem to be doing at the moment thus sucking up all of my blog ideas. What do I write about when all I am doing is working? Well, naturally… work. It’s what people do best in Hong Kong (that, and shop).

Needless to say, Hong Kongers work long hours, but their work day is a little different than the one I remember back home. A normal work day is from 9 to 5:45 p.m., but they get an hour and 15 minutes for lunch. An hour and 15 minutes!!! So in contrast, I usually gulp my lunch down in between conference calls and typing, but everybody, literally everybody clears out of the office at lunch and the cleaning staff come in. It’s a little odd for me because I still haven’t gotten out of the habit of eating lunch at my desk, so conference calls are a little tough when someone is vacuuming underneath you. In terms of the work day, no one is out of here before 7 p.m. Usually I head out of the office at 8 p.m or later usually to go home and take a conference call with North America at 9 p.m. The joys of a 13 hour time difference.

Other things to note – we have a tea lady. She brings tea and water around to everyone in the morning. I heart her. We also have keyboard cleaners that come by every two weeks or so to clean our keyboards. It’s good for me since I eat at my desk. We have a money tree in our lobby for good luck and prosperity and the office is organized according to Feng Shui. Very important.

On a business side I’ve learned fast that face-to-face meetings are much better than the phone so people travel to get to meetings. Giving “face” is huge to get things done. That means that you never say flat out “no” to an idea because that would remove “face”, you must dance around the idea for a bit carefully, perhaps compliment the idea, and then in a round about way say that it’s not going to happen. It’s tougher here – I need a thicker skin. I’ve cried once in the bathroom, but no one saw me (thank God). The pace is quicker, the stakes seem higher, the resources, much, much lower. Everyone covers their ass and they have no qualms about letting other people take the blame. Perfection is a must. Mistakes are not made. I’ve also learned that there are a few gems in my office who have helped (read saved) me. They have truly been the only way that I’ve survived my first month at work. I basically know what I’m doing now, and if I can get through the busy month of March, I’m quite sure I can get through anything.

Okay. Back to work! My sandwich is finished.

One month

Today marks my one month anniversary in Hong Kong. In some ways I feel like I've been gone for a really long time, partly because I have done so much already, but partly because I haven't been always living in the present moment. One of the hardest things for me has been to live in the moment here. When I got here, I was hung up on some things that I had left behind, and I also thought a lot about what would happen in the future instead of just living presently and fully.

In this past week I have really settled in here. I know where to get groceries, I know my local coffee shop and I finally know how to get to and from work. It doesn't mean that exploring where I live is over, it just means there is more familiarity to me now. I am no longer living in the past, or hoping for things in the future. I am living in Hong Kong in the moment--fully and presently. Despite the title of this post, I am not counting down days any more. That, more than anything so far, has been my greatest learning. Once I gave that up I felt more at home here and much more at peace.

Here is one of my favourite quotes, which I am applying to daily life here in Asia, as well as some shots of my HK 'hood. This is where I live.

"The secret of health for both mind and body is not to mourn for the past, worry about the future, or anticipate troubles, but to live in the present moment wisely and earnestly."

-Buddha

My current playlist:

Behind the Moon - Matt Costa

Tenuousness - Andrew Bird
Skin - Sade
While We Wait - Jack Johnson
The Rain - The Swell Season
Kashmir - Led Zeppelin
Forest of Tears - One Hundred Dollars
Walking Wounded - Everything but the girl
Dos Gardenias - Buena Vista Social Club
Walk Away - Ben Harper

(Don't forget I have more pictures on Flickr - http://www.flickr.com/photos/kathleenpics/)

Springtime in Hong Kong

I may be wrong, but I think spring has arrived in Hong Kong. The temperature spiked, and so did the humidity. Gone are the jackets and scarfs--the shorts and sandals have arrived.

I have started exploring the outer islands of Hong Kong. In an effort to break out of the concrete and claustrophobia of the downtown core, I have boarded a ferry two weekend in a row to explore what else Hong Kong has to offer. Last weekend I made a trip to Discovery Bay, a half hour ferry ride from Hong Kong. Discovery Bay is on Lantau island and is owned by a resort developer. The main square is full of restaurants and shops, townhouses line the beautiful beach and apartments pepper the periphery. It is not dense, and I was actually able to see green. I took a deep breath when I got off the ferry--even though the air quality is probably the same as in Hong Kong, it just seems fresh. After a walk along the beach, we sat down for a long, champagne filled lunch. I knew that this was my new favourite escape in Hong Kong.

Yesterday, I boarded a ferry again in the hopes of finding a beach. The weather is very unpredictable in Hong Kong. In fact, I have yet to see an accurate weather forecast. As I headed to Cheung Chau island, a fog settled over the city and the clouds rolled in. There would be no beach for me, but I was all set to Cheung Chau. The island has been inhabited by fishermen for at least 2500 years. The island still supports a small fishing industry and from what I saw, the industry was still alive and well. Cheung Chau is also home to the Bun Festival. A festival where giant towers of buns are created (over 50ft tall) and somehow children are suspended by cables and float up to the top of the tower. I'm still not clear on the bun festival, but I am looking into attending this. It sounds too unusual to pass up. Yesterday, the community was getting ready for a Lantern Festival - thousands of lanterns were strung up throughout the main square and the streets. I gather from what I saw it is part of Chinese new Year celebrations.

I also visited the amazing Pak Tai Temple. A fortune teller sat in the entrance, and my donation to the temple is supposed to bring me health. Sitting under the Banyan tree next to the temple is supposed to bring me fertility. I didn't sit under the tree because an old man had made what looked to be a permanent seat under the tree. When he saw me taking pictures of the tree, he started to pose. It made for some pretty funny pictures. The temple was built in 1783 and is dedicated to the "Supreme Emperor of the Dark Heaven". I saw a statue of the emperor, and believe me, he sure embodied Dark Heaven. No pictures were allowed inside, but he was a pretty scary dude. The temple also houses an iron sword measuring 5 ft that was found by local fisherman and is said to be over 1000 years old. So much history here in Hong Kong.

Last night, I headed to Stanley, a small, expat heavy seaside community in Hong Kong. I sat out on the patio eating mussels with friends and then took in a football (not the American kind) ball game and then headed to an Irish pub to watch Rugby. I don't know a think about football, but I instantly loved it. I can't wait to watch my next game and a Toronto FC game is definitely on the agenda when I come home.

It's spring in Hong Kong. I can hear the birds chirping somewhere outside. I don't know where they live among the concrete, but I can hear them. The palm trees look more alive and green. I expect cherry blossoms will bloom soon too. Yep - it's spring.

The Circle Game

I've had an unusual few days. I have been blessed to see the circle of life in Hong Kong and to experience it first hand.

I am in Hong Kong working, taking over a maternity leave. Maternity leaves are generally quite short - only 6 weeks here- but the woman I am filling in for is taking longer (four and a half months). Her last day was supposed to be on Friday. When she was getting ready to leave the office on Thursday, we were talking about an outstanding project that needed to be completed. She said, "Don't worry - I'll be here tomorrow." I just knew when she said it, she wouldn't be, she would be having her baby. And you guessed it - the next morning I got an email from her saying that she was in labour and that the baby was on her way early.

Yesterday, as I was wrapping up my weekend, I took a cab up the very steep road all the way up to the Peak to visit her and her husband and their new addition. This was not a typical Canadian style hospital. First, it was a private hospital. BIG difference. The views from the hospital were unbelievable and were probably the best I've seen since coming to Hong Kong. My friend and I donned masks as we entered the hospital, which is normal practice. *As an aside, it is very common for people to wear masks in public here. Ever since SARS hit this city in 2002 there is very little tolerance for spreading germs. * The hospital was gorgeous and looked more like a hotel. The balcony of their room had lounge chairs to lay out in, and their dinner menu was complete with steak and salmon - a far cry from the food in our Canadian hospitals. I visited the very small (but sturdy) newborn boy who had only been in the world two days. He slept peacefully the entire time and I reflected on the fact that this little wonder had his whole life ahead of him. A clear and bright path.

Today, I got to experience another part of life in Hong Kong. Over Chinese New Year my new friend's father died. It was especially traumatic for her as she had only arrived in Hong Kong a month ago to spend more time with her family. Despite the fact that her parents live here, she is very much "Canadian". She doesn't speak Cantonese, nor does she know all the in's and out's of Hong Kong yet. Her father had been ill, but his death was sudden. Funeral homes aren't pleasant at the best of times, but in Hong Kong they are known for being especially sterile. The building was huge with many rooms hosting different visitations. I travelled up to the third floor, where the smell of lilies mixed with incense took my breath away. As I approached the room, I could hear the chimes of a Buddhist funeral taking place down the hall. Monks lined the stark, tiled hallway, swaying in their brown robes. I paid my respects to my friend, met her mother and sat in the funeral home staring at the hundreds of flowers - all white - in the room. I felt for my friend. Here she is in this land that is so familiar to her, but so foreign. When her father died she didn't even know that you don't call 911 here. It's 999. I would have never ever known that. How was she to know that? She told me that there are only four morgues in Hong Kong, so they get over crowded and can't always refrigerate, making identifying bodies (everyone has to do it here) very difficult and traumatic. She told me that there are so many people in Hong Kong that you have to book a cremation slot - sometimes is takes six weeks. She told me that it was hard for her. Hard for her because she can't speak the language. Hard for her because she doesn't know how to navigate through the bureaucracy. Hard for her because her dad just died. And all I could do, all I was meant to do, was to just listen. She told me that usually it is Chinese custom to place a somber picture of the deceased at the from of the visitation room- her family had chosen a smiling picture of their father...enjoying life. The picture was taken of him smiling on the ferry on the way to Lantau island. As I left the room, I looked over at the Buddhist mourners down the hall and I realized that they weren't mourning in the way we might think of traditional mourning, because they don't believe in death. They believe in life. Reincarnation is life, and life carries on. This blog is not meant as a forum for my political or religious beliefs, although I suppose they are bound to seep in, but I looked at the Buddhists engaged in the celebration of life, and it reaffirmed my belief in the never ending circle of life. It was comforting, and in such a sterile place, in such a crazy, chaotic city, it brought me warmth and peace.

The circle continues in Hong Kong for the cherished newborn son, and for the beloved father.