Anticipation

In one of my earlier posts I said I was going to try really hard to live in the present moment, and not dwell on how many months or weeks I have left in my stay here and just take it minute by minute – but I am just too excited!! I am breaking my own rule to announce that there are only seven weeks left before I depart on the BIG TRIP. The BIG TRIP will take me to Beijing for three or four days, then on a train for two days through crazy altitudes and mountains, where I will travel to Tibet for close to 10 days, then head to Nepal for a couple of days, then back to Hong Kong via Mumbai. I just can’t handle the anticipation, I am so excited! It’s going to be a fantastic trip, but a lot of prep work is going into the trip as well. I have to get four visas – I am happy to say I now how my Chinese visa *yippee* and I am also scouring the city for appropriate clothing. This is a harder feat than one might think. For those of you who know me, I am not a size 2. I am not obese either, but it's been a bit hard to find clothing here that fits me. I bought pants the other day in a mens' large and I also had to buy mens' sandals. Women's shoes only go to size 9 (I am a proportionate size 10 ladies). How I wish we had a one stop MEC here! So the countdown is officially on. I will try to continue to live in the moment, but if someone mentions Tibet, BIG TRIP, or basically the month of June, I can’t make any promises that my mind won’t wander.

Shek O

It's hard to believe you are in Hong Kong when you visit Shek O. Shek O is a small village on the "other" side of the island, away from the skyscrapers, the crowds and the buzz. It is a place of peace and of tranquility. As my friend Winnie and I drove there yesterday afternoon, I couldn't believe how much the scenery reminded me of the West Coast of Canada. I remembered a romantic weekend I spent with an ex-boyfriend on the Sunshine Coast of BC. The rolling lush mountains and the rocky shores were all very reminiscent of that time.

I am on the downward slope of my time in Hong Kong. I have less that 8 weeks left in this city. It's hard to believe that my time here is coming to a close. When I first arrived, there were moments that I wanted time to speed up. There are times now that I want it to slow down. Last night was one of those times.

Winnie and I walked along the beach and then explored the houses and neighborhoods of Shek O. We hiked up to the top of a small peak (in our flip flops) and watched the sun, the elusive orb that has been hiding from me for months, set behind the mountains.

Our next stop was a small beach front bar, where we drank beer, ate peanuts, watching surfers come in from their day in the waves and gossiped until we were surrounded by the dark and quiet night. It felt as though I was on vacation at a beach resort, but there was something familiar about it. It has started to feel like home here. Getting up to purchase our second round, I met a French woman at the bar and we started to talk in her native tongue. I stumbled through the language - it's been a while since I've spoken French. She asked if I lived here, and I said, "Yes, right now I do." As we conversed, she told me how brave I was to work and live in Hong Kong. For me, there is no bravery involved, just a desire for change, for something new and a thirst for knowledge. I have realized what drives me to travel the way I do, to embark on adventures that most wouldn't consider. I have an endless desire to know more, to learn, to meet people that come from different backgrounds than me. I'm not searching for anything, except to learn how we all fit together on this very large (and very small) planet. I truly believe we are all connected, and I love uncovering all the ways in which we are.

Following dinner, Winnie and I went to the local corner store, bought some cans of beer (classy I know) and headed to the beach where I taught Winnie how to make a meditation sand seat, and we sat and talked. Winnie was born and raised in Hong Kong - she has lived abroad, but this is her home. I told her stories about my home, about my friends, about past relationships and experiences. I told her about my family and the things I miss about my home and the things I love about Hong Kong. She shared many of her experiences - strangely some of which were eerily similar to mine. I also knew last night that Winnie is one of those people that I want in my life for a long time. It may not be beer on the beach forever, but she is definitely a friend for life.

Beware of Dragons

I lost my mind temporarily last week and joined a Dragon Boat team. I have never been in a dragon boat, nor seen a dragon boat race or frankly, had any desire to do it. Somehow, while convincing a colleague at work not to quit the team, I ended up signing up myself. We aren't as hard core as other teams - we only practice once a week, and we only have one race day. The countdown is on - June 16th is the big day. I will be racing at the Hong Kong dragon boat festival.

Yesterday, I made my way to Stanley Beach in Hong Kong, was given a quick lesson on how to paddle by our coach in very broken English and made my way into the boat (it wasn't a pretty sight). The water was rough yesterday, but the sun was shining (a rare occurrence). It took me a few minutes to get the hang of it, but it wasn't too hard. I think all of those years of canoeing and kayaking have paid off! After a few minutes, I was completely soaked by the waves and I am currently waiting for giardia to set in - I must have swallowed a gallon of dirty sea water. After an hour and a half, I was quite certain I couldn't continue. My legs and arms felt like jelly. After one drill, my arms were actually shaking. How am I going to race? I thought - there is no way I am strong enough. Oh well, I have five more practices before race day. I have to improve before then. I hope.

As I stood in line to shower the caked on sea salt from my body, a girl from my team came up to me and asked, "How long have you been dragon boating for? Your form is really great!". I laughed and told her that this was my first time. She looked shocked and said, "Well good for you - you are doing so well!". Maybe it won't be so bad after all.

The Veteran

My friends Trevor and Heather came from Toronto to visit me this past weekend. The experience taught me a few important lessons. First, I realized that I am getting to know Hong Kong very well - not quite expert level, but very close. After almost three months here (can you believe it has already been almost three months!) I was able to roar around the city showing them all of the key attractions, great restaurants and bars and even some time to relax. I did consult my map once, but that was in Kowloon, and I don't count that.

Our three day itinerary brought us to the following places:

Upperhouse Bar for over priced drinks overlooking the skyline of Hong Kong and a perfect spot to look at many beautiful people fresh from the office after a long day toiling in the financial world. Café Saim for spicy Thai food. Tivo on Wyndham for champagne cocktails and more people (men) watching. Lai Do for martinis in Lan Kwai Fong to see the Richmond Street of Hong Kong. The Azure patio for more cocktails and a patio that makes you feel that you are on top of the world.

That was only Friday night. Saturday we…

Had a late start because of all the champagne and martinis consumed on Friday. Ate a vegan brunch at Life for a chilled out start to the day. Took a crazy cab ride up to the Peak, where I was quite certain that the cab driver had lost his mind and would certainly fly us off the mountain in his cab because he thought we were American. “We are Canadian!!!”. Shopping at the Peak Galleria, coffee pit stops, picture taking at the Peak lookout. A trip down the mountain on the Peak tram and then a walk around Soho. Early arrival for our one hour long reflexology foot massage (divine!). Grabbed a yummy cupcake and ate it on the street underneath the mid-levels escalators. Quickly headed home to get ready for dinner, and show Trevor and Heather how to take the MTR (subway). Pre-dinner drinks at Sevva. More high buildings, more patio, more incredible views. An authentic Cantonese dinner at Under the Bridge Chili Crab, where we had…. spicy crab and seriously the best Cantonese food ever. Walked through Wan Chai to the Pawn where we had drink, after drink, after drink and decided that we had revolutionized photography with a new technique (pictures to come). Stumble home. Sleep.

Sunday we headed on the Star Ferry to Kowloon for Dim Sum and a walk around one of the most populated areas on earth. After exhibiting the patience of saints, we decided to leave Kowloon behind (it’s no fun on that side), and headed home. After a couple of hours of chill out time, Trevor and Heather headed to the airport for their next adventure – Vietnam.

From the itinerary I realized that I really do know Hong Kong quite well. I can’t believe how much I have learned about the city and the people since I arrived. I also realized that even though I have been gone for three months, it doesn’t really feel like time has passed. When I first saw Trevor, it was like I had seen him last week in Toronto. I kept reminding myself that we were all together in Hong Kong and once that hit me – that is when it really became surreal.

On Friday night, standing on the patio of Azure, looking down 50 floors to the street below, Heather asked me: “Are you proud of yourself, of being here, of accomplishing this? Do you ever say to yourself, I am proud that I made it this far?” I thought about that for a second and sort of laughed it off. “I guess”, I said in response. The reality is, I haven’t. Do I appreciate the opportunity? Yes. Very much so. Do I love that I can travel to places off the beaten path? Totally – yes. But I don’t think I have ever felt proud, and on the flip side, I haven’t felt entitled. I feel grateful and content with what I have been given and what I have worked for. I have two more months in Hong Kong. At times when I think about what I have left behind, my family and friends and the places I love in Toronto, it feels like a long time, but in other ways it feels like I could just snap my fingers and it will be over. Just in case it is a snap, I plan to have more weekends like my last. Action packed, full of friends, full of laughter and full of Hong Kong.

Thailand in Words

The heat hit me like a punch in the face. 42 degrees. I hadn't done my research properly before I left for Thailand and it turns out that April is the hottest month of the year. I won't bore you with the stories of the almost missed connecting flights, the running through the Bangkok airport stealing quick glances through the windows to see Bangkok, or the British couple I met who shared in my confusion at the airport. No, you don't need to read about all of that. I will start this post upon my arrival at the Koh Samui airport.

Like I said, the heat hit me like a punch in the face. I just really had no idea how hot it would be. The Koh Smaui airport looks like a five star resort - thatched roof, comfy couches, tropical music and friendly staff. It was probably the nicest airport I had ever been to. I had booked myself into a resort that had no stars really. The hotel was recommended to me by an old friend whom I reconnected with on Facebook. From what I had read it was somewhere in the jungle, it was hard to get to and it was cheap. Really cheap. I upgraded my room to the Bungalow and that was $30 CDN a day. The first room I booked was $18 CDN. I wondered what $18 can buy you in Thailand - apparently a lot. My pickup didn't happen at the airport so I had some time to get acclimatized to the scorching heat. Once the driver finally arrived we made our way through the winding streets of Cheweng and to the drop off point for my hotel. My hotel was so far up a mountain that you couldn't get there by regular car, so at the bottom of the road leading up to the hotel, you place a call and the 4x4 comes to get you. I piled onto the back of the pick up truck and braced myself for the bumpy road ahead. I would later make this trip three or four times a day. Little did I know at that point the paradise that awaited me at the top of the mountain.

When I first stood at the top of the mountain and looked down, I just couldn't believe the view. My pictures don't do it justice and I don't think there is any way to capture the blue of the water on film. I spent 5 night and 6 days at the resort. The food was amazing, and while the accommodations were simple - they were just what I needed.

My first night there I met a South African girl named Lesley who was also travelling by herself. She had rented a motorbike that day, so that night we headed down to Cheweng beach to have dinner. Travelling alone is a funny thing - sometimes people don't know what to make of you. It was her first time really travelling alone and she commented that couples are really unfriendly towards her. As a seasoned solo traveller I knew the couple phenomenon well. I can't assume it is the same for men, but I have always found that couples are the least friendly towards you when travelling alone. Families will speak to you, friends of the the same sex, other solo travellers, but not couples. I'm not sure if it is the fact that they want their alone time with their mate and can't be bothered to strike up a conversation with someone else, or if they just feel uncomfortable with a single woman travelling along. Lesley was fascinated by this.

The next day Lesley inspired me, good or bad, to go into town and rent a motorbike. I have never driven a motorbike let alone in Thailand or on the opposite side of the road. This was going to be a challenge. With a little bit of a rocky start I finally found my way and was buzzing around the island in no time. First stop, the spa, where I spent a heavenly afternoon having a Thai massage, body scrub and face massage. It was soooooo good. So good, that I booked a second day.

That night I spent lazing around in my hammock and had a great dinner with Lesley. One of the best dishes I tried while in Thailand was Meang Khum. It is a traditional appetizer that is served on a platform and you sort of make it up yourself. You take Betel leaves, ginger, onion, lime pieces, dried shrimp, cashews or peanuts, chillies and a honey sauce, put all the ingredients into the leaf, wrap it up and pop it in your mouth - delicious!! It was amazing and I am planning to make it when I get home.

My second full day in Thailand I got a very bad burn on my back despite putting on loads of sun screen, which I now think was fake. How could I burn with 50+ sunscreen re-applied six times if it wasn't fake? I made my way to Waterfall 1 and Waterfall 2, had a refreshing swim and then headed back down again.

That night, despite the burn, Lesley and I went to see some Muay Thai boxing. Muay Thai is my new favourite thing - I love it! There is a ritual done at the beginning of the fight where each fighter pays respect to their teacher and their opponent. For each fight this ritual is done, and it is a great thing to witness. I also noticed that when someone was knocked out, the opponent didn't gloat or stick around in the ring to shame the opponent. There was a massive knockout in one of the fights I saw and the opponent immediately left the ring as soon as it was clear the fight was over. I really appreciated the respect that the fighters had for each other - quite different from UFC or regular boxing at home.

My remaining days were spent booting around the island and sight seeing in different places. I definitely want to go back to the Thai Islands and expand my travels beyond Samui and perhaps go to Phengan, or Tao.

One night Lesley and I also went to check out a drag show. These drag shows are a little different than the ones at home. Lady boys, as they are affectionately called in Thailand are very common and almost accepted. I was told that in Thailand three genders are recognized - male, female and transgendered. I have seen good drag queen before, but the female performers were wonderful. I could not believe how beautiful they looked. I think it was quite shocking to some men in the audience, and toyed with their mind a little bit. It was clear many of them had had surgery, but even the ones who hadn't did a great job of transforming themselves.

On my final full day, I decided that I had cheated death for long enough and I returned my motorbike. I relied on my hotel transportation and spent another wonderful afternoon at the spa. That night, I gathered with a bunch of people I had met, shared some laughs, magic tricks, stories and one too many mojitos. The next day I was leaving Thailand, but not forever.

Thailand was a great trip of reflection for me. Before I left Hong Kong, I was offered a permanent role here. If I liked Hong Kong, I could stay indefinitely. Indefinite is a strange word. There are no boundaries to it. It seems endless because it is. There is something clean and perfectly packaged about my five months away. But I couldn't just say no to the offer. I have been telling all my friends and family that I would come home - "Don't worry, there is no way I am staying. " I would say. But that wasn't really true. I have started to really love Hong Kong. It wasn't a definite no to the indefinite proposal. I had to think about it. One night in Thailand as I sat outside and looked up at the sky, I realized something. I hadn't seen the moon and the stars since I arrived in Hong Kong over two months ago. Not once. I am a Canadian girl born and raised - I have always been able to see the moon and stars when I have wanted too. I always know where to go for a breath of fresh air. In Hong Kong I don't have that. The next morning I woke up, and I knew I couldn't stay in Hong Kong. And so the decision was made, but the decision was also made to live my life to the absolute fullest while I am here.

I met so many people when I was on Samui - the nameless French man who I spent part of an afternoon with searching for waterfalls, the Gowan family - Larry Gowan's cousin from the UK, who knows Toronto very well and also knows a guy who once asked me out in Toronto (random), the Brit who lives in Australia who lives for Tim Horton's coffee and breakfast sandwiches, the podiatrist from England who is travelling on her own for the first time and I know that when I left her she was still scared, but I bet now she has spread her wings and is flying on her own. I met a girl from London who had just gotten out of rehab, who is travelling Thailand to find herself. In the end, I think she found what she was looking for on the island of Samui.

And then there is me. A Canadian girl on her own, in search of nothing. She has it all.

Thailand in Photos

View from my room at the Jungle Club in Koh Samui.

The ring at the Muay Thai Stadium.

Me on my motorbike.

My basic but comfy room, complete with hot shower and mosquito net!

The departure gate at the Koh Samui airport.

Lady boy. Hard to tell huh?

Fancy a road side cocktail?

Dusk. Taken from my hammock.

Girl from London travelling around Thailand.

Brit/Aussie boy that loves Tim Horton's.

Brit/Aussi boy with Brit podiatrist.

The Gowan family.

My room at the spa. Sigh. Amazing.

Full set of photos can be found here: http://www.flickr.com/photos/kathleenpics/